Category Archives: Meat

Chinese Dumplings

Beijing Hutong

Last December, I was able to join M on a business trip to China. One of the highlights of our stay in Beijing, aside from the Great Wall and Forbidden City, was taking a cooking class taught in a courtyard residence in a traditional hutong.

We booked the class with hutongcuisine.com before we left and opted for the class on dumplings. There were only three students in the class and, unlike others we have attended, it was a very hands-on experience.

Chunyi Zhou

Our instructor, Chunyi Zhou, greeted us and promptly outfitted each student with an apron, cleaver, cutting board and their own set of ingredients. The way the class works is that each student prepares part of the meal in the morning. It all comes together by early afternoon and then everyone sits down for lunch and enjoys the morning’s preparation.  I have included photos in this post, and there are additional pictures in Saveur’s Beijing issue.

I was tasked with making the pork and spring onion dumplings, while M took over the beef and celery version. We gathered around a large wooden table in Zhou’s kitchen and got to work.  As we prepped the ingredients, Zhou was there to guide (and correct) us along the way. Who knew that you could only stir the meat mixture in one direction? I’m still not sure why but I listened and obeyed.

After the fillings were ready, we got to work on making the actual dumpling wrappers. We rolled our dough into an approximately 10-inch long log and then cut it into 16 pieces. We then used a special Chinese rolling pin to roll each of the pieces into a thin disk about 3.5 inches in diameter. We put a tablespoon or so of filling into each wrapper, folded the disk onto itself and then pinched to seal.

Dumpling preparation

The pinch and seal was probably the most difficult task, aside from using a cleaver to cut everything. Zhou was right there for encouragement and correction. She decided to get all fancy with the pinch and seal on her dumplings as you can see below.

Zhou's dumpling on the left, mine on the right

After class, we went straight to the Chinese supermarket to purchase one of the special rolling pins because we knew we would certainly be making these upon our return–and we have–once. And, although I could eat these dumplings every day, due to their labor intensity, they are probably best reserved for special occasions.

Note:

1. You must use a high-gluten flour to get the elasticity required for the dumpling wrappers.

2. Many of the items listed in the recipe are not available at regular grocery stores.  We picked up many of our ingredients, including the high-gluten flour, at the Chinese American Trading Company on 91 Mulberry St. in New York.

3. Making dumplings seems intimidating but it is really quite enjoyable once you get the hang of it.

4. They are really delicious!

Here is the recipe…

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Filed under Entrees, Meat

Pork with Clams

M went to Portugal many years ago and still cannot stop talking about Pork with Clams, the popular signature dish of the Alentejo region.  I enjoy pork and I love clams but these two items together just didn’t resonate with me.  That is, until I tried it.

Pork with Clams

I discovered a cookbook called Piri Piri Starfish one day when we were at the treasure trove of cookbooks, Kitchen Arts and Letters, on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.  We make frequent trips to this mecca of over 13,000 cookbook titles and never leave empty-handed.  This particular book, however, did not make the day’s final cut for I don’t remember what reason.

Unavailable in the United States, this book by Tessa Kiros features the cooking of Portgual.  In addition to excellent recipes and beautiful photographs, the book also serves as a travelogue and a wonderful introduction to the Portuguese kitchen.

I surprised him with this for his birthday and he surprised me with…Pork with Clams.

We have made this exactly as it appears in Tessa’s book (delicious) and have also lightened it up with a few variations.  Instead of pork shoulder, we have substituted pork tenderloin, a less fatty cut that requires a shorter cooking time, 30 minutes as opposed to the 75 for the pork shoulder.  Also, instead of frying the potatoes in oil, we have simply added them to the pot ten minutes before the clams.

Whatever you do, don’t forget to serve it with a chunk of crusty peasant bread to soak up all the delicious sauce.

Here is the recipe if you’d like to give it a try

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Filed under Entrees, Meat, Seafood

Rabbit Ragu with Homemade Pappardelle

The Table (Still Life with Rabbit), Joan Miro, 1920

I have been thinking about rabbit a lot lately.  Glenn Close feels bad about boiling one in Fatal Attraction, Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland comes out this weekend  and Easter is just around the corner.   This week’s New York Times article on Hip-Hop Cuisine (warning: not for the squeamish) made me think that it was time to give this other, other white meat a try.

We remembered a recipe from the New York Times Magazine that I clipped and saved in 2006.  After digging it up, we set out to make Rabbit Ragu with Pappardelle.  Although their recipe called for store-bought pasta, we were  feeling adventurous and decided to make our own.

I called our new-to-the neighborhood butcher, Schatzie, and was delighted to discover that, yes, he does in fact carry rabbit.  A note about Schatzie’s Prime Meats.  After 30 years on the Upper East side of Manhattan, they have moved across Central Park and are conveniently located a few blocks from us.  They have a nice supply of top-quality meat and poultry and if they don’t carry what you are looking for, they will order it. Knowledgeable, jovial, polite and welcoming, they are an awesome addition to the neighborhood and a valued resource.  They don’t seem to have a website but here is a link to their address and phone.

Rabbit Ragu with Homemade Pappardelle

We have so many recipes for homemade pasta, but decided to go with Mario Batali’s.  Not certain if we wanted to set up the pasta machine, we tried rolling the dough by hand with a rolling pin.  I do not recommend this.

After a few rolls, we determined that we would never be able to get it as thin as we would like and out came the pasta machine.  We ran the dough through the machine a few times, decreasing the thickness with each pass.  We then cut the pasta into 3/4 inch wide strips and dropped them into a pot of salted water for about 2 ½ minutes.  Also, we halved the recipe which is why you only see two eggs in the picture.    This yielded just the right amount of pappardelle for two.

The resulting rabbit ragu was rich, satisfying and perfect for a winter evening.  And soooo much more interesting than chicken.

Here are the recipes

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Filed under Entrees, Meat, Pasta